Monday, March 13, 2017

Pattern Review: EvaDress C20-6681, 1929 Coat

I loved this coat from first sight and knew that I had to have it.  Oh my god, those pintucks!
And, now I DO have it!  It's just as awesome as I imagined!

I used pink wool crepe for the shell, leftover purple silk velvet from this dress for the contrast, and silk charmeuse for the lining.
I picked an appropriately Art Deco button for the closure, but I might try to find a replacement in darker purple at some point.  The pattern didn't call for any closure other than that one button, but I found that I needed four 1" snaps in order for the coat to stay closed if I was sitting or leaning over.

This coat was such an ordeal.  I added a few inches at the hips so that the coat would fit me.  This threw off the way the coat hung, so I had to design inserts for the shoulder seams so that the front of the coat would hang right.  This then threw off the armscye, so I had to do a really creative job of setting in the sleeves.  By this point, there was no way the scarf collar piece would fit, so I ended up designing an entirely new collar following the general aesthetic of other 1920's coat designs (see for example, this, this, and this.)  It was crazy.  I spent so much time drafting and fitting and refitting for this coat.

And that's not even counting...those pintucks.  Backstitching to secure the thread tails would have been ugly, so the thread tails had to be threaded through a needle and tied off on the wrong side of the fabric.  It took forever.
Didn't do such a great job on these.  Oh well.

Anyway, the moral of the story should be ALWAYS MAKE A MUSLIN, but I'm not sure I feel that way here.  I didn't want to make a muslin because I didn't want to do all those pintucks twice, and I figured that 1920's garments are generally shapeless enough that it wouldn't matter so much, but, nope.  Still plenty of adjustments to be made.  On the other hand, if I had made a muslin, I would have redrafted the coat front instead of adding that trapezoid of material, and I really like the extra bit of creative seaming that it added.  I also would never have invented that collar, and I like it way better than the original collar.  I prefer the look, and plus, gathered velvet around the neck is nice and toasty warm!

Another note:  Truly, my K-3 is the honey badger of camera bodies.  I took these photos at a windswept schoolyard.  There was a high wind advisory in effect.  As I was posing for these photos, the wind blew my tripod over, and the camera went smack against the ground.  Camera don't care!  Camera don't give a sh*t, it just takes what photos it wants.  I'm going to have to bend the hotshoe bracket back into position, but that's really no big deal. 

4 comments:

  1. Love the way the back fits you! And that collar and cuffs! Lovely save.

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  2. Now that I just stop laughing...
    OMG - so perfect for you. In this case, I kind of agree with no muslin. The fabric would not have behaved the same in cotton duck as it would in a boiled wool, and you still would have been making adjustments. Enjoy the lovely coat. You have earned it!

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  3. Oh, my! Those pintucks! The fabric! The velvet! The shape of the skirt in the back! Oh, my!

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