Saturday, September 10, 2016

Vogue 2859, 1930's Linen Jacket

Hi everyone!  My travel schedule has settled down enough to post another project!  This one is Vogue 2859, a jacket, blouse, and evening dress from the 1935.  I made the jacket this time.
If you recall, I previously made the evening dress.  I loved that dress, but it shrunk ridiculously when dry-cleaned.  Note to self-- don't dry clean silk crepe de chine.
I gave the dress to my friend C., who has the good fortune to be smaller than me, so she gets all my clothes that shrink in the wash.  She loves it, and I think it looks great on her!

Back to the jacket.  I love this pattern.  I love the art deco seaming, and the fact that it fit me right out of the envelope.  That's a good thing, because with all the funky seaming, I'm not sure how I would have made alterations to the pattern.
The back is even better than the front, I think.
Oh yeah, here's the pattern envelope.
This is not an easy pattern to make.  Figuring out how the sleeves were supposed to go in took a lot of head-scratching, and actually putting them in was complicated and involved intricate, nail-bitey topstitching.

I used mid-weight linen, which was generally unproblematic and easy to work with.  I lined the jacket in mid-weight silk charmeuse, just replicating the jacket pattern, because the inside of the jacket looked like a mess and I had no idea how I could finish the seams otherwise.
Ugly seams!

The charmeuse lining feels marvelous, so this was a great call.
Happy lining!
The jacket closes with two of those slide fastener things (what are these actually called?) on the inside.  It's a little awkward because the jacket doesn't exactly lie flat, but it's not really noticeable.
Did I mention that it's really slimming from the side?
My one not-really-complaint is that in white, it looks like a lab coat.  On the other hand, SCIENCE RULES!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!, so this is not really a downside.

I could totally see myself making this jacket in black wool gabardine with matching pants for an awesome suit.  As it is, I might have to make myself a pair of slim white linen pants to match.

Horray for the awesome jacket!


  1. The slide fasteners, if they're flanked by large eye-like pieces, are called hook and bar closures, or sometimes just pant/trouser fasteners. I don't know how tricky it would be to insert piping in those front and back detail seams, but it would really set off that design in future iterations.

    1. Thanks! Yeah, I definitely thought about piping, but decided that pulling it off adequately was well above my level of skill. YMMV, though. If I wanted a dressy jacket, maybe some beading would work.

  2. its really lovely - I adore those seams - and it wonderfully finished