Saturday, March 26, 2016

Inside a Halston top

A few years ago, I managed to snag an actual Halston top at the Crossroads in West Hollywood.  (Crossroads is a popular consignment shop and that particular one attracts the exactly the sort of crowd and clothes you'd expect a consignment store in that area would.)  The finishing on this particular top is done so well that I had to share it with the sewing world.

The basic design is simple-- heavy sueded silk charmeuse, two pieces, a front and a back, no shaping.

At the neckline, I'm not sure what the name for this kind of hem finish is, but it's brilliant.  It looks polished and it adds just the right amount of weight and stiffness.

The sleeve hem is also a clever solution to a technical problem.  The sleeve hem is set up to be on the bias, which is problematic to sew.  Instead, they hemmed it on the straight grain and folded over a wedge-shaped section of fabric so that it's only the edge that's pressed that's on the bias.  Problem solved.

The sleeves and the bottom of the top both get invisible hems.

And, of course, the side seams use French seams.

The top is a lot of fun to wear, and I will definitely keep these ideas in mind the next time I sew something from silk charmeuse!

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