Sunday, August 2, 2015

Pattern Review: Vogue 8488 with pleated skirt

Last summer, I made Vogue 8488, an out-of-print dress which is happily still available, at least at the time I wrote this post.  What a fun sundress!
Here's the information from the pattern envelope.  I made size 6.
I used a Japanese cotton that I bought from Nomura Tailor during my trip to Japan.  Like most Japanese cottons I've worked with, this one is light to medium weight and has a nubby texture.  I lined the dress with black silk habotai.
My original plan was to make View C, the V-neck version.  It did not work for me.  The bodice pieces were way too small in every possible way.  The straps were too short, and the bodice front gaped and was generally not even big enough for the sake of modesty.  If you somehow want to make View C after reading this, be prepared to go up several sizes and make a lot of muslins.

Luckily, I had enough fabric left over to recut the bodice for View B, and that worked fabulously.

A few construction notes.  Originally I thought that this pattern would be great to use for this fabric because I could pleat out the teal space between the rows of yellow flowers, and be left with a contrasting area of mostly yellow.  This was a great idea, but the pleat spacing in the pattern put the pleats in weird places.  So, I took the pattern as a proof-of-concept and used my own pleat spacing so that I'd be able to carry out my original goal.  These photos let you see the effect I was going for:
 Unfortunately, I severely miscalculated how wide the pattern pieces needed to be, and I had to really finagle the side seams, and take up all the excess in a pleat in the side.  I think it looked OK in the end, even if this photo isn't the most informative due to the shadow:
Anyway, I love this pattern and I would definitely make this dress again, at least View B.  In fact, this is the second time I've made this dress-- the first version was in a sky-blue linen and was one of my favorite dresses until it died in the Great Graduate School Apartment Mold Disaster.  RIP, awesome linen dress.  But I do think that this one is a worthy successor.

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