Friday, June 12, 2015

Pattern Review: V8789, 1950's dress

This is a dress made with awesome fabric and one of my favorite patterns!
Last spring, I visited Japan and returned with much fabulous fabric, including this pink cherry blossom print Japanese cotton:
It has an interesting weave, with a nubby texture like silk dupioni.
 
I thought this print would make a lovely 1950's dress, and I wanted a pattern that I had made successfully before, so I made V8789, a 1950's dress pattern reissued by Vogue.
I made view A, the one with the V-neck.  The bodice is fitted with darts, and the skirt is a rectangle of fabric gathered like a dirndl skirt.  I sewed a size 6 and made my normal fitting adjustments, letting out the darts to deal with the fact that I'm an A cup and the pattern was drafted for a B cup.
The neckline and armholes are finished with facing. 
The bodice is cut on the bias, so that the grain runs parallel to the neckline.  This design decision has a lot of nice consequences-- you don't have to worry about the neckline stretching out on the bias, the bodice seam allowances won't ravel badly because they're cut on the bias, and the bodice has far more give than you'd expect from a non-stretch woven.

I didn't use the skirt pattern piece, opting instead to just cut two rectangles of fabric from selvedge to selvedge.  I stitched grosgrain ribbon to the raw edge at the top of the skirt, partly for extra support for all that gathering, and partly because it helps hide the raw edges.
I turned the hem under and stitched it, then turned it under again about an inch and hemmed it.
I'd comment on the quality of the instructions, but I don't think I read them.  Even if I did read them, I don't remember them-- I made this dress about a year ago.

Enough about the construction.  Onward to the pictures!
Another really nice feature of the bias-cut bodice is that the fabric molds itself to your shoulders.
The back has more or less the same design, even though my hair is hiding the back neckline.  I bought that awesome hair clip in Japan as well.
I also like that the front neckline is high enough that even if it gapes a little as you move around, it's not revealing.

In conclusion, I highly recommend this pattern.  It's versatile, it's well-designed, I found it easy to fit and easy to sew, and it's fun to wear.  I'm probably going to flood my closet with different versions of this dress.  Enjoy!

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