Sunday, April 5, 2015

Pattern FAIL-- Vogue 1137, sleeveless dress

I have to say, y'all, that I was feeling a bit conflicted-- I named my blog Sewing Faille, and yet I had never sewn with faille, and most of my projects were successes.  No longer, my friends!

When I went to Japan, I bought this lovely lilac Japanese cotton with a fun print that runs in stripes. 
I thought I'd use it for a V-neck dress, so that the stripes would run parallel to the neckline and form a V in the center front and center back, like this: 

I chose V1137, a reissued Vintage Vogue pattern from the 1950's.  It's a close-fitting, sleeveless V-neck dress.
This pattern more or less failed to go well. 

First off-- the sizing.  This pattern comes in sizes 8-22.  I usually need a size 6 in Vogue patterns, so I cut a size 8, expecting to take it in.  I added center front and back seams to the bodice, and cut the pieces out on the bias, instead of on the straight grain as the pattern wanted.  I sewed the darts with my usual small bust adjustment, pinned the pieces together, and tried it on.

The bodice was waaaayyy to small.  It wasn't a size 6; it was more like a size 4.  I let out the 5/8" seam allowances to 3/8", and then the bodice fit in the front.  The bodice back, however, was a mess.  The darts took in too much fullness, and the back neckline gaped terribly.  I'd have to pin out over two inches to get the gaping to go away.
I could have kept going, but at that point I felt like Father Ted.

So, I think I'll be looking for a different pattern to use.  I still have plenty of fabric to cut another bodice.

If you're going to use this pattern, you should be aware that the sizing runs very small, and the pattern doesn't fit well from the get-go, especially in the bodice back.  I'd recommend you just use a different pattern.

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